It’s rare that you can combine such juxtapositions as consorting with king penguins and nursing a pint in a twee English village. The Falklands, South Georgia and Antarctica navigation is a blend of otherworldly ice, dunes, biodiverse beaches, ghosts and graves. For birders, the jagged cliffs teem with species in a cacophony that reminds of the undisturbed wildness of the utopian isles.